A stunning Baltic destination is set to be European Capital of Culture 2027 – and it’s an almost unheard-of spot.
Liepāja, a port city on the coast of the Baltic Sea in Latvia, will join Évora in Portugal as one of two cultural hotspots next year – and I’ve come to visit, with my grandmother in tow.
On my first day, we pull up to what appears to be an abandoned building crumbling before our eyes.
‘We’ve arrived,’ our guide announces. I’m very confused. This is the most popular tourist spot in the city?
Liepāja, I discover, not only has plenty going on – it also has a fascinating history tied up with one of the most influential and difficult periods of history.
At the city’s, Northern Fort, part of the Liepāja Fortress, a labyrinth of bunkers dating back to the 19th century form part of the Karosta region.
The fort was established to protect the navy base from potential enemy attack, and was closed military territory during the Soviet occupation of Latvia.
But nowadays, the ruins are open – yet, due to their location on the coast of the Baltic Sea, seem to be quite literally disintegrating into the water. It’s a sight to see – it feels like a step into a dystopian sci-fi film.
Visiting the Northern Fort is fascinating, as the former war bunkers slant downwards
The influence of the Soviet era is everywhere here.
The city is strange. It’s somewhat bleak, and yet with pockets of extreme beauty.
In parts, it is truly stunning – the Baltic coast, the old town, all of the historic churches are among the prettiest I’ve seen.
Soon, I begin to understand what it’s all about. What’s unique about Liepāja is that it doesn’t quite fit a category. It’s neither entirely grey and Soviet, nor completely modern.
While driving through the city, we happen upon a landscape that perfectly captures this – we approach an ugly box building, only to notice that right behind it is an imposing, magnificent, golden-ornamented Russian Orthodox church.
Our guide puts it well: ‘It’s the paradox of the Orthodox.’
The Naval Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, from up close, is truly magnificent. Its beauty is made even more apparent by the contrasting surroundings – we see people trudging through snow towards impenetrable Soviet apartment blocks right next to worshippers entering the church.
While the history is undoubtedly one of Liepāja’s huge appeals as a capital of culture, there’s a modern lifestyle to explore too.
The paradox of Liepāja, with Soviet apartments next to glistening churches
Visiting the Naval Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, a beautiful building
The crown jewel of Liepāja today is its concert hall – which, during a visit, our tour guide says is often dubbed an ‘Aperol Spritz’ concert hall due to its orange hue, visible from both in and outside.
The ‘Great Amber’ concert hall, as it is officially known, opened in 2015.
With excellent acoustics, modern architectural design and multi-purpose functionality, it rivals other music venues across Europe and has even won several awards.
The 17th-19th century interior museum ‘Madame Hoyer’s Guest House’ is also absolutely fascinating – you’re taken back in time, and the museum’s inn-style restaurant is truly authentic, as are the staff in period dress.
Seeking refuge from the cold, we also visit the city’s market.
Designed in the style of Art Nouveau, Peter’s Market pavilion is one of the most beautiful market pavilions in Europe and was first opened in 1910.
It is Liepāja’s largest and Latvia’s second largest market. There is a wide assortment of in-season fruit, vegetables, forest products, flowers, plants and other produce from farms available.
But I’m fixated on the baked goods and pastries, some of which cost just 60 cents (50p).
The ‘Aperol Spritz’ concert hall has a warm orange glow in its interior
Peter’s Market pavilion opened for the first time more than a century ago in 1910
On offer are pastries galore – for unbeatable prices, too
That’s not the end of our gastronomic experiences here, either.
A drive to a pretty park – which, to our delight, is covered in almost untouched snow, unlike the slush along the main streets and boulevards.
Lunch at Parka Paviljons consists of warming soup, and outstanding (and, notably, hot) food.
I try the beef cheeks, while my fellow travellers taste the tomato soup, lamb soup and cod.
The highlight, though, is later that night. A newly opened restaurant RO Bread features a short menu from a phenomenal rising star Latvian chef.
We opt for the Arctic char – and agree, universally, that it’s the best fish we’ve ever tasted.
The quality is fantastic – we’re on the coast after all. But it’s the flavour and texture that really win.
RO Bread’s menu changes with the seasons, featuring local products and modern flavor combinations.
RO Bread’s menu features Arctic char with carrot puree, leeks and hollandaise sauce
The restaurant interiors are magical, with a snowy backdrop and twinkling lights
The restaurant also bakes its own natural sourdough bread, which is well worth a taste.
Travel to Latvia is not something to skip; aside from its capital, there are so many small towns and communities to visit for a unique travel experience.
To get to Liepāja, fly to Riga Airport – flights from London Gatwick to Riga are from £58 with AirBaltic – and then take a bus, train or drive to the city.
Liepāja might not be the best heard-of or prettiest city in Latvia, but its history is as intriguing as its modern landscape.
It’s equal parts dystopia, music hotspot, a step back in time and a real part of the cultural future of Europe. It is, absolutely, a paradox.
