If there’s one place that is sure to get the holiday snobs raving, it’s the Canary Islands.
I’ve lost count of the wrinkled noses and cries of ‘tacky Tenerife’ and ‘Lanzagrotty’ I’ve had thrown at me when I say I’m heading there again on holiday. But I’ve been visiting these islands for more than 20 years – and have also called them home several times when the draw of near-constant Spanish sunshine proved irresistible.
That warm weather is part of what draws so many British tourists every year. Yet many visitors miss so much of what the islands have to offer away from the major resorts – from majestic natural landscapes to fabulous vineyards, secluded coves and cultural curiosities.
Here are a few of my favourite sights and experiences away from the crowds.
GRAN CANARIA
Rock of ages
The Roque Bentayga, which is an easy hike to get to, was the last stronghold for the Gran Canaria’s original inhabitants before the Spanish conquistadors came
The Parador de Cruz de Tejeda is set high in the mountains of the island
One of Gran Canaria’s most famous sights is the Roque Nublo, a 262ft (80m) basalt rock that sits on top of a mountain. It’s a popular hiking route, but I prefer its sibling, the Roque Bentayga.
This alternative monolith sits on a plateau and was the last stronghold for the island’s original inhabitants before the Spanish conquistadors came. It’s an easy hike and has a great visitor centre where you can learn more about pre-Hispanic times.
My tip: Check out the unusual ancient rock carvings at the top of Roque Bentayga.
Where to stay: Doubles at Parador de Cruz de Tejeda start at £113 (paradores.es).
Capital gains
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, the island’s capital, is Spain’s ninth largest city
The city, which boasts hundreds of brightly coloured houses, is home to more than 380,000 people
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – the island’s capital – is Spain’s ninth largest city yet most holidaymakers ignore it. It has a thriving arts scene with many galleries, museums and an opera house, two fabulous beaches and one of the hottest food and drink scenes in Spain.
My tip: In the Ciudad Jardin neighbourhood, you’ll find the British Club and the Holy Trinity Anglican Church, built in the late 1800s.
Where to stay: The island’s grand dame, the Santa Catalina, has doubles from £156 (barcelo.com).
Beach vibes
San Agustin on Gran Canaria’s south coast is for those who might wish to avoid some of the island’s more lively spots
If Playa del Ingles is the rowdy teenager, then San Agustin on Gran Canaria’s south coast is its grown-up sibling.
Attracting those looking for a more laid-back break, San Agustin has a huge sandy beach, shops, bars and restaurants and it’s all just one bay away from the nightlife of Maspalomas and Playa del Ingles.
My tip: Book the thalassotherapy facilities at the Gloria Palace Hotel (gloriapalaceth.com).
Where to stay: Paradisus by Melia Gran Canaria has minimum four-night stays from £1,477 all-inclusive (melia.com).
FUERTEVENTURA
Fisherman’s friend
The coastline around the old fishing village of El Cotillo can be a lot quieter than other parts of the island
While the town of Corralejo in north-east Fuerteventura, with its fine beaches, is set up for holidaymakers, the nearby coastline can get crowded. Instead, venture to the opposite coast to the former fishing village of El Cotillo.
The sands are just as spectacular but with fewer people. You will also find the surf crowd here.
My tip: El Cotillo enjoys spectacular sunsets – pack a picnic and head for the beach.
Where to stay: The four-room El Hotelito del Cotillo has doubles from £74 (hotelitocotillo.com).
LANZAROTE
Through the grapevine
A vineyard in the Volcanic soils of Lanzarote. It produces malmsey, which is a sweet wine similar to madeira
The super-stylish boutique hotel Cesar Lanzarote
‘Farewell, my hearts: I will to my honest knight Falstaff, and drink canary with him,’ says The Host in Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives Of Windsor. He’s talking about wine from the Canary Islands, which was much prized.
Nearly all the islands make wine, but Lanzarote’s vines are famous for growing in deep pits of volcanic picon soil.
My tip: Wine Tours Lanzarote (winetourslanzarote.com) will collect you from your hotel, guide you around wineries for tastings, and drop you back afterwards.
Where to stay: The super-stylish boutique hotel Cesar Lanzarote has doubles from £394 (annuahotels.com).
Sand and surf
The 3.7-mile beach in Famara is ideal for all sorts of watersports – especially surfing
La Casa de los Naranjos has a library full of 19th-century literature and a peaceful courtyard
The 3.7-mile beach in Famara is ideal for all sorts of watersports – especially surfing – as well as being popular among those who enjoy lingering walks. It is rarely crowded, with sun-seekers put off by its strong tides, but at low tide many shallow natural pools are formed for taking a dip.
My tip: Head up on to the cliff to the Mirador del Risco de Famara for incredible views.
Where to stay: Doubles in Hotel Emblematico La Casa de los Naranjos in nearby Haria start at £106 (lacasadelosnaranjos.com).
TENERIFE
Prehistoric plants
The Anaga park in the north-east of Tenerife
The Iberostar Heritage Grand Mencey is the only five-star hotel in Santa Cruz
Many visitors head up Spain’s highest mountain, El Teide, and it’s easy to see why. The soaring peak of the volcano is pretty spectacular, but the island also has several other parks and impressive natural sights. Anaga Rural Park, in the north-east, is a biosphere that’s home to laurisilva forests – thick, cool, subtropical forests with high humidity. The laurel plants exist from when Europe was covered in rainforests.
My tip: Book a guided hike with Anaga Experience (anagaexperience.com).
Where to stay: Doubles at Iberostar Heritage Grand Mencey in Santa Cruz de Tenerife start from £114 (iberostar.com)
Whistle-stop tour
A day trip to one of the Canaries’ smaller islands, La Gomera, is well worth your time
If you are staying near Costa Adeje or Los Cristianos in Tenerife, a day trip or an overnighter to the neighbouring island of La Gomera is well worth it.
The capital, San Sebastian de la Gomera, is tiny and historic. Hiking is great in the mountainous centre or the Garajonay National Park, plus there are great views towards Tenerife and El Teide.
My tip: Try almogrote – a strong cheese paste that is often served as a starter with bread.
Where to stay: The clifftop Parador de La Gomera has doubles from £117 (paradores.es).
Storied streets
Tenerife’s first port was built in the village of Garachico in the 15th century but was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1706
It is one of the best preserved historical districts in the Canaries, with some architecture from the 16th and 17th centuries still intact
Garachico is a little town on Tenerife’s north coast. It was once the island’s busiest port, exporting wine and sugar cane, before the Trevejo volcano erupted in 1706, covering parts of it in lava and destroying the port. Garachico today is a quiet town, popular for hikers going to El Teide National Park and Teno Rural Park.
My tip: Visit one of the natural sea pools along the coast.
Where to stay: B&B doubles at Boutique Hotel San Roque start from £212 (hotelsanroque.com).
LA PALMA
Stellar views
The island, also known as La Isla Bonita, is an amazing place to go hiking
Hotel San Telmo offers rooms with satellite TV
The island of La Palma, also known as La Isla Bonita, is incredibly green and lush.
It is ideal for hikers and also stargazers, thanks to its low light pollution. With more than 20 international telescopes, La Palma is one of the best places on Earth to look out into the stars.
My tip: Book an experience with LaPalmastars.com.
Where to stay: Hotel San Telmo in Santa Cruz de La Palma is a cute boutique with doubles from £74 (hotel-santelmo.com).
EL HIERRO
Edge of the world
The trees of El Sabinar have been bent by strong winds
The island, which is the most western of the Canaries, has rocky and rugged landscapes
There are eight official Canary Islands in the archipelago, and the second smallest after La Graciosa is El Hierro.
The island, including its surrounding waters, is a Unesco Global Geopark because of how it was formed 1.2 million years ago and how its has since evolved.
The island runs almost entirely on renewable energy.
Top tip: Visit the bending trees of El Sabinar – juniper trees sculpted by constant trade winds.
Where to stay: Tiny Hotel Puntagrande has doubles from £208 B&B, minimum stay two nights (hotelpuntagrande.com).
Where to avoid
First and foremost, if you’re looking for an authentic Canarian experience, you need to steer well clear of the major touristic resorts.
While areas such as Playa del Ingles in Gran Canaria, Playa de Las Americas and Los Cristianos in Tenerife, Puerto del Carmen in Lanzarote are set up for visitors and offer some good value accommodation, they are also jam-packed full of places serving a full-English and shops selling tacky tourist tat.
These areas also get incredibly busy during the Canaries’ two peak seasons: winter and summer. If you must head there, try beating the crowds in spring and autumn.
Live whale and animal shows
I thought that whale and live animal shows went out with the Victorians or at least Free Willy, but sadly, this practice continues in Tenerife, where animals including orcas and dolphins are made to perform for braying crowds.
Luckily, the waters around the islands are a natural habitat for many sea creatures, including pilot whales and turtles. See them from a safe distance in their natural surroundings on a responsible and accredited boat tour.
Look for the Barco Azul (Blue Boat) badge for those with reliable credentials.
Steer clear of influencers
Barranco de las Vacas is one of the most stunning natural rock formations on Gran Canaria that has echoes of the Grand Canyon.
Despite being one of the most incredible natural rock formations on Gran Canaria, Ross recommends steering clear of Barranco de las Vacas as the site has been popularised by influencers, and is suffering badly from overtourism
Sadly, the influencers have made their mark (quite literally in some places by carving initials into the rock) and the site is suffering badly from overtourism with phone-clutching wannabes looking for the perfect shot for the ‘gram.
Parking is dangerous and there are queues of traffic on the narrow road above.
Crowded carnavales
The Canary Islands’ carnavales (carnivals) are one of the most spectacular festivals in Spain and a great deal of fun, but the capitals of each island get overwhelmed during the month of February.
If you’re not one for crowds and you don’t want to be paying through the nose for accommodation, then try another month instead, such as April or October, or come for one of the smaller festivities that happen throughout the year.
The dunes of Maspalomas in Gran Canaria are mesmerising with their undulating hills of sand and are well worth a visit.
However, the government brought in strict rules a few years ago to help preserve the dunes as they are a migratory habitat for birds and other flora and fauna. So, if you go, stick to the designating walking trails or else you might find yourself on the end of a hefty fine.
Eyewatering heights… and prices!
As mentioned above, you might want to avoid the peak (and queues) of El Teide, especially as the cost of the cable car to the top is eye-watering these days. Instead use your cash for a stargazing experience with an accredited company to witness the volcano at its majestic best.
Ross recommends avoiding the peak (and queues!) of El Teide, Tenerife, particularly due to the eye-watering prices
The 3,718 metre-high volcano often draws huge crowds to its base – particularly in the height of the tourist season
Ross Clarke has a list of his favourite sights and experiences the Canaries have to offer – away from the crowds
My tips:
Check the resorts carefully before you book. Many are built on the steep sides of the islands’ barrancos (ravines) meaning you might find yourself hiking to the beach and back.
Even if you do want to fly and flop in the classic resorts, try to spend at least one day on an adventure to a different part of the island away from the coast. All the islands have pretty towns and villages to wander, and it’s usually where you’ll find the best local food.
